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Baker Submersible Pump Control Box
A.Y. McDonald Contactor - Single Phase 230V Control Box Component, 1.5-15 HP
A.Y. McDonald
A.Y. McDonald Contactor - Single Phase 230V Control Box Component, 1.5-15 HP
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- From $220.50
A.Y. McDonald Control Relay - Single Phase 230V Control Box Component, 1.5-15 HP
A.Y. McDonald
A.Y. McDonald Control Relay - Single Phase 230V Control Box Component, 1.5-15 HP
- Price
- From $141.75
A.Y. McDonald Running Overload - Single Phase 230V Control Box Component, 1.5-15 HP
A.Y. McDonald
A.Y. McDonald Running Overload - Single Phase 230V Control Box Component, 1.5-15 HP
- Price
- From $57.75
A.Y. McDonald Starting Overload - Single Phase 230V Control Box Component, 1.5-15 HP
A.Y. McDonald
A.Y. McDonald Starting Overload - Single Phase 230V Control Box Component, 1.5-15 HP
- Price
- From $36.75
A.Y. McDonald Overload Kit - Single Phase Control Box Component, 1/2-1 HP
A.Y. McDonald
A.Y. McDonald Overload Kit - Single Phase Control Box Component, 1/2-1 HP
- Price
- From $117.25
A.Y. McDonald Relay Kit - Single Phase Control Box Component, 1/2-1 HP
A.Y. McDonald
A.Y. McDonald Relay Kit - Single Phase Control Box Component, 1/2-1 HP
- Price
- From $106.60
A.Y. McDonald Capacitor & Overload Kit - Single Phase Control Box Component, 1/2-1 HP
A.Y. McDonald
A.Y. McDonald Capacitor & Overload Kit - Single Phase Control Box Component, 1/2-1 HP
- Price
- From $87.50
A.Y. McDonald Running Capacitor - Single Phase 230V Control Box Component, 1.5-15 HP
A.Y. McDonald
A.Y. McDonald Running Capacitor - Single Phase 230V Control Box Component, 1.5-15 HP
- Price
- From $74.37
A.Y. McDonald Starting Capacitor - Single Phase 230V Control Box Component, 1/2-15 HP
A.Y. McDonald
A.Y. McDonald Starting Capacitor - Single Phase 230V Control Box Component, 1/2-15 HP
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- From $78.75
A.Y. McDonald 6" Deluxe Single Phase Control Box - Three Wire Single Phase 230V, 7.5-15 HP
A.Y. McDonald
A.Y. McDonald 6" Deluxe Single Phase Control Box - Three Wire Single Phase 230V, 7.5-15 HP
- Price
- From $1,182.30
A.Y. McDonald 4" Deluxe Control Box (1 1/2 - 5 HP)
A.Y. McDonald
A.Y. McDonald 4" Deluxe Control Box (1 1/2 - 5 HP)
- Price
- From $347.58
A.Y. McDonald 4" Standard Control Box - Capacitor Start & Run (1 1/2 - 5 HP)
A.Y. McDonald
A.Y. McDonald 4" Standard Control Box - Capacitor Start & Run (1 1/2 - 5 HP)
- Price
- From $235.81
Baker Submersible Pump Control Box
Description
Authorized Baker Water Systems Dealer · Houston, TX
Baker Submersible
Pump Control
Boxes
The above-ground brain of every three-wire single-phase well system. The control box holds the starting capacitor, run capacitor, and relay that get the motor spinning — placed at the surface where they can be inspected, tested, and replaced in minutes instead of pulled from hundreds of feet down a well. Factory-matched to Baker motor electrical requirements, in three tiers from 1/2 through 15 HP, with every internal component stocked separately for repair.
3 Tiers
Standard · CSCR · Deluxe
1/2–15 HP
4" and 6" Motors
230V
Three-Wire Single Phase
9 Parts
Every Component Sold Separately
Start Here
Which Box — or Which Part?
Two kinds of shopper land here: someone matching a new box to a motor, and someone fixing a box that stopped starting the pump. Both paths below.
New box for a 1/2–1 HP motor?
The Standard capacitor-start box — starting capacitor and relay in a compact metal enclosure. The right fit for most basic residential three-wire installations.
→ 4" Standard Control Box (CS)
New box for a 1 1/2–5 HP motor?
Standard CSCR adds a run capacitor for continuous-duty efficiency — required territory above 1 HP. Deluxe adds a magnetic line contactor on top for positive switching.
→ Standard CSCR or Deluxe
Pump cycles constantly, or motor longevity is the priority?
The Deluxe tier's magnetic contactor takes the switching load off the pressure switch contacts — the upgrade that pays for itself on frequently cycling systems.
→ 4" Deluxe Control Box
Running a 6" single-phase motor, 7 1/2–15 HP?
The 6" Deluxe box: contactor, starting capacitor, and run capacitors in a larger enclosure, sized for 6" motor amperage on 230V single-phase service.
→ 6" Deluxe Control Box
Pump hums but won't start?
Statistically, that's the starting capacitor — a bench-testable, inexpensive part. Capacitors, relays, overloads, and contactors are all stocked individually.
→ Repair Components
Rebuilding a small box in one order?
Pre-matched kits for 1/2–1 HP boxes — relay kit, overload kit, or the combined capacitor & overload kit — one part number instead of a component hunt.
→ Repair Kits
Education
What a Control Box Actually Does
A single-phase motor can't start itself — it needs a phase-shifted kick. The control box choreographs that start, then protects the motor for the rest of its life. Here's each component's job.
Inside the Box — The Starting Sequence
1
Starting Capacitor
Delivers the phase-shifted surge through the start winding that breaks the rotor loose and spins it up. Works hard for a fraction of a second per start — and it's the component that fails most often.
2
Control Relay
Drops the start winding out of the circuit once the motor reaches speed. A relay that fails to drop out cooks starting capacitors repeatedly — the telltale of serial capacitor failures.
3
Run Capacitor (CSCR & Deluxe)
Stays in the circuit during operation, improving running efficiency and lowering current draw — why boxes above 1 HP are capacitor-start, capacitor-run.
4
Overloads
Thermal protection with external manual reset — disconnects the motor when current exceeds safe limits, before locked-rotor or mechanical overload damages the windings downhole.
5
Magnetic Contactor (Deluxe)
Positive electrical switching that takes the full motor load off the pressure switch contacts — the component that makes the Deluxe tier the frequent-cycling answer.
Why Above Ground Matters
Two-wire motors seal these components inside the motor housing — downhole, unserviceable. Three-wire systems put them in this box at the surface, which is why a three-wire system's most common failure is a fifteen-minute, screwdriver-level repair instead of a rig call to pull the pump.
Factory-Matched Is Not Marketing Language
Capacitor microfarad values, relay pickup points, and overload calibrations are specific to each motor HP. Baker boxes ship matched to Baker three-wire motor electrical requirements — and a "close enough" substitution shortens motor life invisibly, showing up as a dead motor months later rather than an error today.
Also in Every Baker Box
Metal casings, thermal protection with external manual reset, and auxiliary contacts for control by probes — ready for water-level or low-well protection schemes without rewiring.
Match the Tier to the Motor HP
The Three Control Box Tiers
1/2 – 1 HP
Standard CS
Capacitor Start — the residential baseline
- Starting capacitor✓
- Run capacitor—
- Magnetic contactor—
- EnclosureCompact metal casing
- FitBasic residential wells
1 1/2 – 5 HP
Standard CSCR
Capacitor Start, Capacitor Run
- Starting capacitor✓
- Run capacitor✓ — running efficiency
- Magnetic contactor—
- EnclosureMetal casing
- FitStandard duty above 1 HP
1 1/2 – 5 HP · 6": 7 1/2 – 15 HP
Deluxe
CSCR plus magnetic line contactor
- Starting capacitor✓
- Run capacitor✓
- Magnetic contactor✓ — positive switching
- 6" Deluxe7 1/2–15 HP, larger enclosure
- FitFrequent cycling, max motor life
All tiers run 230V three-wire single phase. Match the box HP to the motor nameplate exactly — the capacitor values and overload calibration inside are HP-specific.
Repair the Box, Don't Replace It
Control Box Components & Kits
Every part inside a Baker control box is stocked individually — which turns most "dead pump" calls into an inexpensive component swap. Match components to the HP and part number on the box label.
| Component | Fits | What It Fixes |
|---|---|---|
| Starting Capacitor | 1/2–15 HP boxes | Motor hums but won't start — the most common failure in the system |
| Running Capacitor | 1 1/2–15 HP CSCR/Deluxe boxes | High running amps, hot motor, degraded efficiency |
| Control Relay | 1 1/2–15 HP boxes | Start winding never drops out — cooks starting capacitors repeatedly |
| Contactor | 1 1/2–15 HP Deluxe boxes | Chattering, welded contacts, failed switching |
| Starting Overload | 1 1/2–15 HP boxes | Nuisance trips on start, or lost start-circuit protection |
| Running Overload | 1 1/2–15 HP boxes | Nuisance trips under load, or lost running protection |
| Relay Kit | 1/2–1 HP boxes | Pre-matched small-box relay replacement, one part number |
| Overload Kit | 1/2–1 HP boxes | Pre-matched small-box overload replacement |
| Capacitor & Overload Kit | 1/2–1 HP boxes | The full small-box refresh in one order |
Match to the Label, Exactly
Capacitor values and overload calibrations are motor-HP specific — "close enough" is how motors die young. Read the HP and part number off the control box label before ordering; if the label is faded, send us a photo and the motor nameplate and we'll identify the right components.
Diagnose Before You Buy
Control Box Troubleshooting, In Order
Work Above Ground First
1
Kill Power, Then Open the Box
Disconnect at the breaker and verify dead with a meter. Capacitors store charge — discharge safely before touching components. Line-voltage work belongs with a licensed electrician per local code.
2
Hums, Won't Start → Starting Capacitor
Look for bulging, leakage, or a failed capacitance test. It's the highest-failure-rate component and the cheapest fix in the system.
3
Serial Capacitor Deaths → Control Relay
If this is the second or third capacitor, the relay isn't dropping the start winding — replace the relay with the capacitor or the new one dies too.
4
Trips Under Load → Overloads vs Real Overload
A tripping overload is telling you something: verify voltage at the box under load and check running amps against the motor spec before assuming the overload itself is bad.
5
Box Checks Out → Test Downhole
Megohm the motor windings and check lead-to-lead resistance balance against spec. Only then does the diagnosis move to the motor and cable.
Why This Order Saves Money
The control box exists precisely so the most common failures are surface-serviceable. The sequence above resolves the majority of no-start calls without a pump rig — which is the entire economic argument for three-wire systems over two-wire on deep sets.
When It's Not the Box
A box that passes every test points downhole — motor, splice, or cable. If the motor fails its megohm test, see our Baker Submersible Motors collection for the replacement; if the motor passes and the hydraulics are the problem, the pump ends collection covers the wet end.
Technical FAQ
Common Questions
What's the difference between a control box and a starter kit?
Phase. A control box serves single-phase three-wire motors — capacitors and relay managing a single-phase starting sequence. A starter kit serves three-phase motors, which start without capacitors and need only a contactor and calibrated overload. Single phase → control box. Three phase → starter kit. Never interchangeable.
Do I need a control box at all?
Only for three-wire single-phase motors. Two-wire motors carry their starting capacitor in a sealed cartridge on the motor itself — no box, just a pressure switch. Check the motor: two power leads plus ground = two-wire, no box; three power leads plus ground = three-wire, box required and matched to the motor's HP.
Standard, CSCR, or Deluxe — how do I choose?
HP first: 1/2–1 HP motors take the Standard capacitor-start box; 1 1/2–5 HP requires the run-capacitor design, so Standard CSCR or Deluxe. Between those two, cycling behavior decides — the Deluxe's magnetic contactor takes the switching load off the pressure switch contacts, the upgrade that earns its cost on systems that cycle frequently or where maximum motor life is the priority.
My pump hums but won't start. Is the motor dead?
Usually not — that symptom is the starting capacitor's signature, and it's the highest-failure-rate part in the system. Test it before condemning anything downhole. And if this is your second or third capacitor, replace the control relay with it: a relay that fails to drop the start winding is what keeps killing them.
Can I replace a failed component with a generic capacitor from the electrical supply house?
Match the microfarad rating, voltage rating, and duty exactly and it can work — but this is where motors quietly die young. Baker's components are matched to Baker motor electrical requirements, and the small price difference buys calibration you can't see from the outside. Read the box label, match the part, or send us a photo and we'll confirm.
What are the auxiliary contacts for?
Control by probes — water-level electrodes or similar low-well protection that interrupts the pump when the well draws down too far. Every Baker box carries them, so adding dry-run protection later is a wiring exercise, not a box replacement.
My pump came with a control box — when would I buy one separately?
Three cases: replacing a failed or storm-damaged box on an existing system; building a set from a pump end and motor (or a pump ordered LB — Less Box); and upgrading tiers, most commonly Standard CSCR to Deluxe on a system that cycles hard. For repairs of an otherwise healthy box, the components table above is the cheaper path.
Does an AutoDRIVE VFD work with my control box?
It replaces it. The AutoDRIVE takes over starting, speed control, pressure sensing, and motor protection in one unit — a conventional control box is not used with it. If constant pressure is where your system is headed, see our Starter Kit & AutoDRIVE collection before investing in a Deluxe box upgrade.
Send a Photo of the Box Label
Box label plus motor nameplate is all it takes to confirm the right tier or the exact repair component — same day. Wrong capacitor values kill motors slowly; a five-minute check doesn't.
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Authorized DealerBaker Water Systems · Control Boxes & Components
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