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Franklin Electric
Keep a Franklin Electric water system running — and rebuild the one that isn’t. This is where the parts and accessories live: the control boxes, drives, and protection that run the motor; the splice kits and cable that connect it; the deep-well injectors and jet accessories that extend its reach; the seals, impellers, and bare pump ends that rebuild the wet end; and the switches, gauges, and check valves that finish the system. Watermain Supply supplies Franklin Electric replacement parts and accessories, matched to your exact pump, motor, and model. Tell us what you’re fixing and we’ll get you the right part.
Franklin Electric product information on this page — part families, model references, and application data — is published for product identification and information only, and is drawn from Franklin Electric’s own literature. Franklin Electric, FPS, Pumptec, SubDrive, MonoDrive, Tri-Seal, and all related names, models, and specifications are trademarks of Franklin Electric Co., Inc., used here for identification only. Watermain Supply is an independent supplier and is not an authorized Franklin Electric distributor; Franklin Electric parts and accessories are sourced directly through our own supply channels. For select other manufacturer lines, Watermain Supply is a factory-authorized distributor. Parts and accessories must be matched to your specific pump, motor, or system — confirm the correct part with us, by model and serial number, before ordering.
A water system is a chain — motor, controls, cable, pump end, and the pressure gear that ties it together. When one link wears or fails, you don’t always need a new pump; you need the right part. Here’s how the Franklin parts and accessories catalog breaks down, so you can find what you’re after or tell us where the system is failing.
The single most important thing on this page: match the part to the machine. A control box is built for a specific horsepower and voltage. A deep-well injector is sized to the pump and the depth to water. A seal kit fits one pump family, not all of them. Get us the nameplate details — model number, serial number where available, HP, voltage, and phase — and we confirm the exact part rather than guessing. It’s the difference between a repair that works the first time and a return.
Everything that starts, runs, and protects the motor.
The connection between motor and surface.
Extend a jet pump’s reach and keep it primed.
The parts that wear — rebuild instead of replace.
The gear that finishes a water system.
The electrical heart of a submersible system. Franklin controls are built specifically for Franklin motors, so matching the box or drive to the motor’s horsepower and voltage is what makes the system start reliably and shut down safely when something goes wrong.
Control boxes operate three-wire, single-phase Franklin motors — they hold the start capacitor and start switch the motor needs to come up to speed. Standard and Deluxe boxes cover roughly 1/3 to 15 HP; the smaller QD (Quick-Disconnect) boxes put all the circuitry in the front cover for fast service. When a box fails, you often only need the internal repair part — a capacitor kit, an overload kit, or a start-switch/relay.
Motor protection guards the investment. Pumptec and Pumptec-Plus monitor motor load and supply voltage and shut the pump down on dry-run, low-flow-well, rapid-cycle, or power-fault conditions before the motor is damaged.
SubDrive and MonoDrive variable frequency drives convert a conventional pump into a constant-pressure system by varying motor speed to demand — holding steady pressure and adding built-in protection. We also carry replacement pressure sensors and sensor harnesses for these drives.
A control box or drive must match the motor’s HP, voltage, phase, and wire configuration (2-wire vs 3-wire). Send us the motor nameplate and we’ll confirm the correct control before you order.
Everything in the well between the motor and the wellhead. These are the parts that get a submersible motor wired, sealed, and hung correctly — and the ones that fail a system when they’re done wrong.
A submersible splice kit joins the motor lead to the drop cable with a permanent, watertight connection — the splice sits underwater for the life of the install, so a proper heat-shrink or potted kit isn’t optional. Motor lead assemblies replace a damaged pigtail at the motor. Submersible drop cable carries power down the well in the right gauge for the motor and depth. And a torque arrestor centers the pump in the casing and absorbs the starting torque that would otherwise let the pump swing and chafe against the well wall.
The accessories that turn a convertible jet pump into a deep-well pump — and keep any jet pump nozzle-tuned and primed. The centerpiece is the deep-well injector kit, which does the actual work of lifting water from depth.
A deep-well injector kit (also called an ejector or jet package) drops down the well on a two-pipe setup and lets a surface pump reach water it could never pull on suction alone. Each kit pairs a venturi and nozzle with an injector/ejector body and a foot valve and strainer, and is matched to the pump model and the depth to water — typically for wells 4 in and larger, reaching depths toward 120 ft.
On the shallow side, Quick-Change jet nozzles re-tune a jet pump between high-pressure and high-flow profiles, and foot valves and check valves keep the suction line and pump primed between cycles.
The same convertible pump uses a different injector for a 40 ft lift than for a 90 ft lift, and the injector — not just the pump — sets the flow and pressure you get. We size the injector to your pump model and depth to water.
Shallow-well jet pumps top out around a 25 ft suction lift. Past that, a deep-well injector is required — give us the depth to water and the pump model and we’ll spec the kit.
When a pump loses prime, leaks at the shaft, or loses head, the motor and controls are usually fine — it’s the wet end that’s worn. These are the parts that bring the hydraulics back, often for a fraction of a new pump.
Mechanical seal kits replace the carbon/ceramic shaft seal (with FKM/Viton elastomers on many pumps) that stops leakage at the shaft — the most common wear item on a running pump. Impellers and diffusers restore lost flow and head. O-rings, gaskets, and hardware kits reseal the case on reassembly. And a complete bare pump end — the full stainless hydraulic assembly, motor not included, like the BT4 56C-mount pump ends — rebuilds a booster or transfer pump onto a customer-supplied or existing motor.
Seals, impellers, and pump ends fit specific pump families and mounting styles — a 56C pump end, for example, is not interchangeable with a square-flange assembly. Confirm the pump model with us before ordering a rebuild part.
The switches, gauges, valves, and fittings that turn a pump into a working, protected water system — the small parts that are usually the fastest, cheapest fix for a system that’s short-cycling, reading wrong, or won’t hold pressure.
A pressure switch starts and stops the pump at set cut-in and cut-out points; a worn switch is behind a surprising share of “dead” pumps. A pressure gauge is how you actually see what the system is doing. Check valves hold prime and prevent backspin and water hammer, and tank tees and fittings plumb the pressure tank, switch, gauge, and drain into one manifold at the wellhead or in the utility room.
Most parts returns come down to one wrong detail. Send us these off the nameplate and we’ll confirm the exact part before it ships.
Not sure what you’re looking at? Send a clear photo of the pump, motor, or control-box nameplate and a quick description of the symptom — won’t prime, leaks at the shaft, short-cycles, trips, no pressure — and we’ll work back to the part. If it’s a wear item on a running pump, a seal or switch is often the whole fix.
We match parts and accessories against Franklin Electric published data and confirm fitment before you order — and we won’t send a rebuild part until the pump model and mounting are verified. Installation should follow Franklin’s manuals and, for wiring and in-well work, a qualified professional.
This page is provided for product identification and information only. Watermain Supply is an independent supplier of Franklin Electric parts and accessories — sourced directly through our own channels, not as an authorized Franklin Electric distributor — and a factory-authorized distributor for select other manufacturer lines. Franklin Electric, FPS, Pumptec, SubDrive, MonoDrive, Tri-Seal, and all related names, models, and specifications are trademarks of Franklin Electric Co., Inc., used here for identification only. Parts and accessories must be matched to the specific pump, motor, or system; all specifications are drawn from Franklin Electric published data and may change without notice. Confirm the correct part, current models, ratings, availability, and pricing with us before ordering, and follow Franklin’s installation manuals — wiring and in-well work should be performed by a qualified professional.
Give us the model number, HP, voltage, and symptom — or just a photo of the nameplate — and we’ll match the exact Franklin Electric part or accessory. Engineering-led, verified before it ships.
Email sales@watermainsupply.comOr call 281.664.8000 — same-day quotes on stocked items